Mukaish or Muqaish work is a form of embellishment work in which strips of metallic wire are inserted into the fabric and then twisted to create metallic embroidery. This type of embroidery involves twisting thin metallic threads to create patterns all over the fabric. Traditionally, real silver and gold were used, but is increasingly being replaced with cheaper metals.
The metal that is used in the Mukaish work is usually in the shape of a wire. The metal is first stretched into strips and then passed through the fire so that metal takes on different hues. After this, metal is then cut into wires of finer breadths. Next, the wires are beaten using a small hammer so that the density of the wire is almost paper thin. Only when such density is achieved the wire can be weaved in and out of something as delicate as a fabric. Once the embroidery work is complete, the fabric is spread out flat. The embroidery is then flattened and brightened thoroughly over with a glass bottle or cowrie shells. This is done to work out any lumps in the embroidery. It also burnishes the metal and leaves it brighter and shinier.
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Parveen Babi
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