Chelsychacon - The Art Of Chelsy Chacon

wkorea – a new chapter

Art by Vanessa Morales

Moonlight, 1893, Edvard Munch

Medium: oil,canvas

THE LAYERS CHEAT SHEET PART TWO (PART ONE HERE) Once again, I’m no expert- there are things about these layers I probably haven’t covered, so please try them out for yourself! Layers 1-7 help your contrast. They are usually a pair of the former two groups I went over in my last post. 1. OVERLAY:  Helps your contrast by boosting your lights and darks, while the more mid tone pixels aren’t affected as much. It does this based on the layers beneath it.  “Screens” the lights, “multiplies” the darks.  2. SOFT LIGHT:  Similar to overlay, but a “softer” effect. You can think of soft light as more transparent. 3. HARD LIGHT: You can look at hard light as an intense version of overlay, with much brighter colors and a much less transparent look. 4. VIVID LIGHT:  This is the heavy metal version of overlay- think of it similar to color dodge and color burn.  Very intense colors, good for finding interesting lighting and color combos. 5. LINEAR LIGHT:  Crazy amounts of contrast and color is added here, even more than vivid light.  so heavy metal  6. PIN LIGHT:  This one is interesting because besides it also being an intense contrast layer, it can add random noise to the active layer.  Apparently this is a combo of the lighten blend mode on the light pixels and darken on the dark pixels, but the noise effect is what makes it really interesting imo. 7. HARD MIX:  You will turn this mode on and be like “no” but it is actually adjusting its fill will reveal another overlay-ish type layer.  It throws the colors on the active layer towards a more primary color such as blue, or magenta.  _____ 8. DIFFERENCE: This will invert your colors, taking into account the layers below. If colors are very close, they will be black. 9. EXCLUSION: This also inverts your colors, taking into account the layers below. If colors are very close, they are grey. Exclusion and difference are layers that would be good for graphic pieces, I haven’t really gotten used to incorporating them in my painting workflow. 10. SUBTRACT: Similar to the above layers, but more intense. You will notice that the darker you make your active layer with Difference, exclusion, and subtract, the lighter and more transparent looking the result will be. 11. DIVIDE:  Divide, however, usually results in crazy highlights that are pretty opaque unless the layer is fairly light, and then it will begin to go transparent.  ___ 12. HUE:  Makes the lower layer take on the hue of the active layer. 13. SATURATION:  The lower layers take on the saturation of the active layer. 14. COLOR:  The lower layers take on the color of the active layer. 15. LUMINOSITY:  The lower layers take on the luminosity, or brightness, of the active layer. Once again, I’m no expert, but I hope this helps. Thanks guys! http://drawmaevedraw.tumblr.com/

Doodles . . . . https://www.instagram.com/p/BvQGUvIF1Wo/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=1fhpo5ggdxg4d

The best defense is a good offense

An illustration of my original characters for a personal project

Follower Advice #1

I thought it’s be a good idea to post art advice prompts every now and then so people can pass on their knowledge, so here’s the first one:

What advice would you give to your former self as an artist that you wish you knew earlier?

Seated Woman with Her Left Hand in Her Hair, 1914, Egon Schiele

Medium: watercolor,paper

Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Acropolis, Athens, 2nd century AD - renovated in 1950