2018-05 - Blog Posts
Notre-Dame... de Strasbourg
I know, I know. Notre-Dame in Paris just reopened. But Notre-Dame is a very common name for churches in France. In fact, we covered one in Le Havre not that long ago, possibly one of the smallest cathedrals in the country. At the other end of the scale, one of the largest, if not still the largest, is Notre-Dame de Strasbourg. Built during the same time period as its Parisian counterpart, its facade has striking similarities: the grand rose, the two square towers at a similar height (66-69 m)... but while Paris stopped in 1345, Strasbourg kept going for almost a century, filling in the space between the towers, and adding a whopping octagonal spire on one side, reaching 142 m above ground.
Of course, there were plans to make the monumental facade symmetric, but the ground under the South tower wouldn't support the weight of 76 m of spire. In fact, huge structural repairs had to be made during the 19th century to avoid collapse.
The cathedral was the world's tallest building for a couple of centuries, from 1647 to 1874. Considering it was completed in 1439... Yeah, it didn't grow, it owed it title to the Pyramids of Giza shrinking from erosion and taller spires on other cathedrals burning down. Then it lost the title when churches in Hamburg, Rouen (another Notre-Dame Cathedral) and Köln were completed.
But talk of records is just talk, and 142 m is just a number, until you're faced with it. My favourite approach to the cathedral, to truly give it is awesome sense of scale, is the one I inadvertently took on my first proper visit to Strasbourg. From the North end of Place Gutenberg, walk along Rue des Hallebardes. The town's buildings will hide the cathedral from view for a moment, only for it to reappear suddenly at the turn of a corner, much closer, the spire truly towering over the surrounding buildings which also dwarf the viewer. I don't pass by there too often, to try to replicate the breathtaking reveal.
PS - We've already done a piece on the astronomical clock housed in the cathedral, an absolute treasure.
Éguisheim's super-slim houses
Just a few kilometres to the South-West of Colmar is the village of Éguisheim, with a preserved Medieval centre, featuring gorgeous timber-framed houses. Some of these are the daintiest, slimmest houses you can find!
It begs the questions "why?" and "how did people live in them?" Well, in some places with similar thin houses, taxes have been the reason, as residences were taxed based on how far they extended on the street, with few restrictions on height and depth. Heck, here's an example in Colmar that doesn't have any footprint on the street: the Muckekaschtele, or "fly box house". It has a surface of 25 m², but it wasn't originally used as a home - it was a watchtower to make sure people were paying customs when bringing goods to market.
I'm not sure if that's what's at play in Éguisheim, it just looks like they're making the most of the space available between streets. In any case, they're charming and eanred Éguisheim the title of "France's Favourite Village", a poll organised by public TV channel France 2, in 2013. Éguisheim's more historic claim to fame is having been the birth place of Pope Leo IX (reigned 1049-1054).
